Shutters might seem simple at first glance (rows of slats within a frame), but behind that clean look is a surprisingly intricate process involving carpentry, engineering, and close attention to detail. Each shutter is a made-to-measure product, crafted to fit a specific window and built to last for years. Understanding how shutters are made not only helps you appreciate the craftsmanship behind them but also helps you choose the right style, finish, and material for your home.

This guide walks through the complete manufacturing process, from raw materials to final installation.

Step 1: Material Selection

The entire shutter build starts with the material, which sets the tone for everything that follows. A good supplier will work with a mix of materials depending on the application:

• Hardwood (like poplar, paulownia, or basswood) – Lightweight, strong, and easy to paint or stain. Often used for high-end finishes or large windows.

• Engineered wood core with polymer coating – Offers better resistance to warping while maintaining a clean painted finish. Used in MDF shutters.

• Waterproof ABS or PVC – Designed for use in kitchens and bathrooms, where high humidity or direct water contact is a factor.

Material choice directly affects weight, durability, and appearance. For example, hardwood is ideal for wide panels because it won’t sag over time. In contrast, polymer materials are essential in wet rooms where real wood might swell or rot.

Step 2: Timber Conditioning and Stabilisation

Hardwood (if used) must be properly kiln-dried before anything else happens. Timber comes in with varying moisture levels depending on how and where it was harvested. It’s placed in a kiln and dried down to around 6–8% moisture content. This stabilises the wood, preventing movement or warping later on.

Conditioned timber is then left to acclimate to the workshop environment for several days. This step is often skipped by low-end factories, leading to swelling or splitting down the line.

Step 3: Profile Cutting and Sizing 

Shutters are made from several core components:

• Stiles: Vertical side rails of each shutter panel
• Top and bottom rails: Horizontal pieces that cap the frame
• Louvres: The adjustable slats
• Tilt rod or gear system: Controls the movement of the louvres

Each component is cut to the exact size needed for the window opening. This is not done in bulk, every shutter is made to order. CNC routers and precision saws are used to create clean cuts, and louvre ends are shaped to fit their tilt mechanisms.

Some manufacturers offer hidden tilt rods or split-tilt panels (where the top and bottom louvres move separately). These require additional machining and often a different pivot system.

Step 4: Shaping and Drilling 

Once cut, each part goes through a shaping process. Louvres are planed or rounded depending on the chosen profile (elliptical louvres are the most common), and mortises are cut into the stiles for assembly.

Holes are drilled:

• At regular intervals in the stiles for the louvre pins
• For the tilt rod or hidden gear drive (geared systems require highly accurate hole alignment)

All drilling is done with custom jigs or automated machines to maintain uniform spacing and alignment, especially for large shutter runs where errors multiply quickly.

Step 5: Assembly of Panels 

The frame is built first using dowel, mortise and tenon joints, or finger joints, depending on the build method. High-end shutters typically use mortise and tenon joints for strength and to avoid racking (twisting under weight). The joints are glued and clamped square.

Louvres are then slotted in, each secured on stainless steel pivot pins. These allow the louvres to rotate without wearing out the wood. The tilt mechanism is attached — either a visible rod (centre or offset) or a hidden rack-and-pinion system built into the stile.

Tension screws are often added into the side of the shutter to adjust how stiffly the louvres open and close. This allows for long-term adjustment if movement or loosening occurs.

Step 6: Sanding and Surface Prep

Before any paint or stain is applied, every shutter is hand-sanded using fine-grit sandpaper. The goal is to create an ultra-smooth surface without sharp edges. Particular attention is paid to:

• The ends of louvres (which can be rough from shaping tools)
• Inside the frame joints (to ensure no glue seepage)
• Surfaces that will be visible at eye level

Shutters that will be stained undergo an extra sanding step to remove any blotches or burn marks that might affect colour consistency.

Step 7: Priming, Painting or Staining 

Painted shutters go through a multi-stage spray finishing process:

1. A primer coat to seal the surface
2. Light sanding to remove grain swell
3. Two to three coats of topcoat for depth and durability

Stained shutters are hand-wiped or sprayed with wood stain, then sealed with UV-resistant topcoat. All finishes are cured in controlled environments to prevent dust or paint defects.

Colour options are usually customisable. Most manufacturers offer a palette of whites, greys, and natural tones, with the option for RAL colour matching.

Step 8: Quality Control 

Before leaving the factory, every shutter panel is thoroughly checked:

• Louvres should open smoothly and stay in position
• Paint or stain should be free from runs, bubbles, or blemishes
• The frame must be perfectly square (diagonal measurements must match to within 1mm)
• Hinges, tilt rods, and fixings are tested for strength and alignment

If any panel doesn’t meet tolerance, it’s sent back for correction. This attention to quality is one of the main differences between premium shutters and cheaper mass-produced ones.

Step 9: Packaging and Transport

Once the shutters are passed, they’re wrapped and boxed for delivery. Protective film covers painted surfaces, foam inserts prevent movement, and each panel is marked by room and window for easy sorting on site.

Shipping damage is rare if packaging is done right, but budget providers sometimes skip internal wrapping, leading to corner dents or louvre pressure marks.

Step 10: Installation 

Even the best-made shutter won’t work unless it fits the window perfectly. Before production begins, a surveyor takes detailed measurements of each window, including:

• Width and height (top, middle, and bottom)
• Depth of reveal
• Presence of tiles, handles, or uneven sills

Once on site, the fitter aligns each shutter to the frame using hanging strips or a sub-frame. Hinges are adjusted so that panels swing freely, and magnets or catches are tested for closing tightness. Silicone or filler may be used to close small gaps caused by out-of-plumb walls.

Step 11: Final Tuning and Handover

After fitting, the installer checks:

• Louvre tension
• Panel alignment
• Light gaps around the frame

They’ll also walk the customer through how to clean, adjust, and maintain the shutters. Proper use can extend their life by years. Good shutters should require no maintenance beyond occasional wiping and tension checks.

Final Thoughts

Making shutters is a hands-on process that blends traditional woodworking with modern precision tools. Every step, from drying the wood to adjusting the last hinge, plays a role in the finished product.

For buyers, understanding how shutters are made means you can ask better questions, choose the right material for each room, and spot the difference between mass-produced kits and genuinely custom work.

Read: Are Plantation Shutters Good for Bedrooms?

Ready to Get Started?

If you’re considering shutters for your home and want a result that’s properly measured, well-made, and professionally installed, our team at Best Blinds can help.

We offer free quotes, expert guidance, and custom-fitted shutter solutions tailored to your space. Whether you’re upgrading a single window or transforming your entire home, we will walk you through the process step-by-step.

Request your free quote and start planning your shutters today.